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2017年1月7日星期六

Preview: Zelos Cosmos

Elshan Tang of Zelos Watches has produced some rather interesting pieces in these past two years. Shortly after the launch of his debut watch, the Helmsman, I took a sacred vow, swearing a vow of secrecy on a Patek's mainspring. Elshan then showed me some ideas for future models. You have seen most of them by now like the mighty Abyss and the slick Chroma, but the most intriguing of the bunch just launched today on Kickstarter. Behold, the Cosmos.
The Cosmos is an open-faced disc watch with an elaborate, four-layer dial. The handset is the centerpiece, or perhaps "disc-set" is more accurate as the hands have been replaced with intricately cut wheels of sandblasted metal. They are paper thin, appearing to float over each other. The hour hand is a stubby triangle poking out from beneath the elaborate, gear-shaped minute disc. The small, skeletonized disc in the center with the Zelos logo is the second hand, although it has no pointer, so it serves more for form than function. Two sapphire rings complete the dial. The outermost is secured with four screws and holds polished hour markers while the innermost is engraved with a minute track. All of this appears to float above the brushed base. The crystal is double-domed sapphire with beveled edges and an inner anti-reflective coating. 
Powering all this is a trusty, high-beat, 24 jewel Miyota 9015, humming along at 28.8k bph. Flip the watch over, and you can peek at its workings through the display window. The view is deliberately obscured by a cage that mimics the gear shape of the minute hand, offering just a glimpse of the PVD rose gold rotor. 
Sharp-eyed Zelos fans will recognize the case shape as that of the Chroma, sized up to 45mm. This stainless steel puck with its characteristic scalloped and grooved sides is a fitting complement for the avant-garde dial, although wearability could be a question. The lugless case will help it wear smaller, but as I found with the Chroma, deleting the lugs also eliminates the transition from the case to the strap, accentuating its thickness. There are three variants available: silver/white, black/rose gold, and black/blue.

Water resistance is just 50m, but this is not a sport watch, nor is it a dress watch. Rather, the Cosmos promises to be a bold statement piece in the idiom of SevenFriday and the Ancon x-35, but with a smoother movement than either. Pre-sales start at $549 USD and after just two hours the project was fully funded. Check out the Zelos Cosmos on Kickstarter for more.
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2017年1月3日星期二

Ferro Watches: New Model and Giveaway

I've previously written about the Ferro Distinct one-hander and the Airborne Titanium Chronograph. Today, I'm revisiting them both. You see, Ferro has announced the Distinct 2, which adds some subtle, but important improvements to the original design. While they are at it, they are also teaming up with The Time Bum to give away an Airborne Titanium Chronograph.

Distinct 2

Like the original, the Distinct 2 is a handsome, 44mm, wire lug, one-hander inspired by a sports car's tachometer. The watch has aa AR-coated sapphire crystal and 100 meters water resistance. It looks nearly identical to the old watch, sharing the same case shape and dial, but from there, the specifications diverge, beginning with a polished finish and larger, screw-down crown, both of which complement the trench style case. 


Inside, the quartz model's Ronda 505 has been replaced by a 715, and mechanical watch fans now have two choices: a Miyota 8215 (21 jewels and a 21.6k bph ), or an ETA 2824 (25 jewels, 28.8k bph). The automatics also get the added bonus of a double-domed crystal. 

Early bird prices start at $150 USD for the quartz, $264 USD for the Miyota automatic, and $599 for the ETA. The Swiss Quartz may be the most expensive, but buyers will also get a pair of leather driving gloves. See the Ferro Distinct 2 Kickstarter page for more information.  

Airborne

The Airborne is an aviation themed chronograph with a VK64 MechaQuartz inside its titanium case. Its dial employs layered construction with cutaway numbers and an aircraft silhouette at 12 o'clock for a stylized, military look. Like the Distinct, the Airborne is 44mm wide with wire lugs, a sapphire crystal, and is rated for 100m water resistance. 

The watch sells for $350 at ferrowatches.com, but one lucky individual will get one for free! The Time Bum and Ferro are giving away a grey Airborne Chronograph with blue skeleton hands. See the entry form below for details. Giveaway ends May 31, 2016.
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